RAREblog

is your brainchild going to work? You've built your latest (or maybe your first) Arduino clone. It might be breadboarded , on stripboard , or a PCB . You've visually checked the connections, over and over, and maybe done some quick continuity checks with a multimeter. Everything looks fine. But will it actually work? Follow these steps to check it out. Use blink - The Secret Sauce Here's my secret sauce for building testable clones: Use a chip that has both a bootloader and the standard blink sketch pre-loaded . Use a 5V LED for testing. Let's look at those in a bit more detail. Use a chip that has both a bootloader and the standard blink sketch pre-loaded When you test your clone with a pre-prepared chip, you're starting with a known good core component. If the blighter doesn't blink you know you've made a mistake in the wiring. For more detail on why this is a goo idea on courses, see here . A 5v LED is the tester's friend Many make...

One of the last projects that Quick2Wire worked on before the company ceased trading was a display based on the nxp SAA1064 controller and a 7-segment display. There's still a stock of the Quick2Wire boards over at SK Pang , but Quick2Wire never finished the 7-segment design. I'm thinking of restarting that project and I spent a little time this afternoon looking at what would be involved. It seems that the DIP version of the controller is no longer manufactured, and the only display I could find in my parts box is also no longer made. I don't think either of those issues is insurmountable; there seem to be a lot of the DIP chips for sale on eBay, and I guessed that the display pinout was probably the same as you find in more up-to-date displays from the same manufacturer. I was fairly sure that the display was a common-anode type, which the controller requires; I quickly lashed up a test circuit using a lobstar and checked the connections. lobstar and 7 segment d...